We're based in Wigan and are focused on the entire Borough from Standish in the North to Golborne in the South and Orrell in the West to Tyldesley in the East. Keeping things local makes it easier to build good customer relationships because we're never too far away and can be more responsive.

We're also happy to work within an approximate 20 mile radius of Wigan so that stretches roughly from Ormskirk in the West across to Bolton and from Leyland in the North down to Warrington.

We do undertake larger projects further afield but when factoring in travelling time and costs this inevitably affects our charges but we're always happy to discuss things, just call us on 01942 466652 and we'll be happy to provide advice.

Our call-out fee is £72, including the first repair hour (parts not included). Quotes are provided free of charge.

We understand how inconvenient breakdowns can be so we are happy to offer a 24/7 emergency call out service. If you have any emergency issues with your new boiler, then please call us on 01942 466652.

We recognise that you can't be experts at everything so we're focused on high-quality plumbing services to ensure the best combination of materials and products are used and that they're properly fitted. We therefore don't offer a complete bathroom or kitchen fit-out service, however we do have a wide and long-standing network of independent tradesmen, such as tilers, electricians and joiners who can provide these services. It's worth noting that most "full service" kitchen and bathroom companies use sub-contractors for the actual work but they obviously add a margin whereas we let you deal direct which is usually more cost-effective.

The plumbing is basically the "engine" of your bathroom and it's vital that what goes under the bonnet is done to the highest standards, no one wants to discover a problem, such as a leak, after the bath, sink, shower and the tiling has been done as it can be expensive to remedy afterwards. We ensure that all pipework and fittings are expertly installed and fault free. Even the biggest kitchen and bathroom fit- out companies rely on sub-contractors for the specialist aspects of an installation.

Contact us to discuss your bathroom requirements and we'll be happy to provide impartial advice.

Yes. We're happy to visit you to discuss your specific requirements and explain all the suitable options, such as which boiler we'd advise or what solution would be best. We install a range of different leading boiler brands, and are approved by Baxi and ATAG, but we're not tied to any one of them so will offer impartial advice to meet your specific needs and budget. Please visit our "recommended Boiler Brands" page for more information. All quotes are provided free of charge.

Yes. We partner with Ideal 4 Finance, who are FCA Authorised and regulated, to provide a range of financing options which allow you to spread the costs over a term that suits you. Please visit our "finance" page for more information.

If you notice damp patches on walls, floors, or ceilings you might have a pipe leak. Sometimes you might also see mould or mildew growth or notice musty smells. You might also experience a drop in water pressure. If you have a water meter you could see it running even when no water is being used, or see a sudden increase in your water bill.

A gas leak can usually be identified by a distinct rotten egg smell - natural gas is naturally odourless, but an odorant called mercaptan is added to give it that sulfurous, rotten egg smell to alert people. You may also hear whistling sounds coming from gas appliances or pipes. Inhaling too much natural gas can cause headaches, dizziness, nausea, fatigue, and even difficulty breathing. A higher-than-normal gas bill could also indicate a leak, especially if you're not using more gas than usual.

A boiler should be serviced every year by a Gas Safe registered engineer to make sure that it is operating safely and efficiently. Faulty boilers can be dangerous and can develop issues such as carbon monoxide leaks that put you and your family at risk. Regularly servicing your boiler can save you money because any potential issues can be identified and addressed before they develop into serious problems. See our "boiler servicing" page for more information.

If you have a burst pipe, immediately shut off the water supply at the main stopcock. Then, call us and we'll arrange to call out to assess the damage and make any repairs. In the meantime, try to mop up the water, drain any remaining water from the pipes by opening all taps, and turn off the electricity if water has reached electrical areas.

In most homes, the stopcock (also known as a stop valve or stop tap) is usually found under the kitchen sink. However, if it's not there, it could be located under the stairs, in a downstairs toilet, in an airing cupboard or near the front door. If you share a water supply with neighbours, the communal stop valve might be where the water enters the building.

To add pressure to a boiler, locate the filling loop (this is usually a flexible hose with 2 valves under the boiler), open the valve until the pressure gauge reads between 1 and 1.5 bar. Once the right pressure is reached, close the valve. If the boiler pressure keeps dropping, please call us as it may be a bigger problem.

A noisy boiler can be caused by several issues, including limescale build-up, air in the system, overheating, pump issues, or low water pressure. Banging noises often indicate what's known as "kettling" (limescale restricting water flow), while rattling or humming can be caused by loose components, worn parts, or pump issues. If your boiler is making unusual noises, it's safer to call us to take a look before it stops working. Call us on 01942 466652.

Radiator temperature variations can be caused by several factors, including airlocks, incorrect bleed valve operation, or issues with the boiler's pressure. If some radiators are hotter than others, it's a good idea to check for airlocks by "bleeding" them (see next FAQ) and ensure your boiler pressure is within the optimal range.

To bleed a radiator, you'll need a radiator key to open the bleed valve located at the top of the radiator. It's a small, flat key with a handle that's used to open the bleed valve on a radiator. Once the valve is open, air will escape with a hissing sound, followed by water. Close the valve when water starts to come out, and repeat for each radiator.

Air source heat pumps (ASHP) offer several benefits over traditional heating systems, primarily in terms of energy efficiency, environmental friendliness, and cost savings. ASHPs can extract heat from the surrounding air, even in cold temperatures, making them significantly more efficient than electric resistance heaters. This results in lower running costs and a smaller carbon footprint. ASHPs are considered a cleaner heating option compared to gas boilers, reducing greenhouse gas emissions. ASHPs typically operate quietly, making them a good choice for residential settings. ASHPs generally require less maintenance than traditional boilers, further contributing to their long-term cost-effectiveness. While primarily used for heating, some ASHPs can also provide hot water. While the initial cost of an ASHP can be higher than a conventional boiler, the long-term savings on energy bills often offset this investment. Additionally there are government grants and incentives which can further reduce the upfront cost.

An "A rated" boiler refers to its energy efficiency rating, with "A" being the highest rating, meaning that the boiler is very efficient and uses less energy to heat your home. This results in lower running costs and a smaller environmental impact.

Only a Gas-Safe Registered engineer can legally carry out gas safety checks. You must ensure that anyone working on your boiler is fully Gas Safe Certified − they should display the Gas Safe Register logo and have a Registered Number, For more information see our "Gas Safe" page.

There are lots of boiler brands on the market, each with specific features and benefits meaning that some are better suited to certain properties and budgetary needs. We are happy to provide impartial advice on the best choices for your home - we're independent and not tied to any particular brand so our advice is based on experience and recommendations for your specific needs. See our "recommended boiler brand" page for more information.

If you are experiencing issues with your boiler and it's showing a fault code, please call us on 01942 466652 and we'll provide advice or arrange a call out as necessary. Here are some of the fault codes for key boilers and what they mean:

Baxi Boiler Fault Codes

Duotec/ Platinum range

E10: Flame loss during operation.

E119: Low water pressure switch activated. Low pressure in the system or pressure sensor faulty.

E133: Ignition lockout.

E168: PCB (printed circuit board) fault.

E160: Fan fault.

E130: Flue NTC operated

E193; Pre-Circulation fault

E125: Circulation fault

E110: Safety thermostat operated

E50: Hot water NTC fault

E28: Flue NTC fault, air pressure switch, blocked flue, blocked condensate or wiring fault

Baxi 600/800 Range

E09: Gas valve connection cable.

E10: External probe fault.

E12: Differential water flow switch fault (still open).

E13: Differential water flow switch fault (still closed).

E15: Gas valve command fault.

E20: Central heating NTC fault.

E28: Flue NTC fault.

E40: Central heating return NTC fault.

E50: DHW NTC sensor fault (tank boiler) (s.c.) OR DHW NTC sensor fault (tank boiler) (o.c.).

E83/E84/E85/E86/E87: No communication.

E109: Pre-circulation fault.

E110: i) Boiler max temperature exceeded for gradient (probable pump jammed or air in the circuit). OR ii) Boiler max temperature exceeded for overtemperature (probable pump jammed or air in the circuit). OR iii) Safety thermostat sensor tripped.

E118: Primary system water pressure too low (< 0.5 bar).

E125: Circulation fault (primary).

E128: Frequent flame failure (12 times).

E129: Safety error for frequent loss of flame with max correction during the ignition during Calibration Function.

E130: Flue thermostat sensor tripped (lockout).

E133: Failure to light (could be a gas supply issue). Check that the gas supply is available. If possible try lighting a gas cooker or fire.

E134: Elapsed time gas valve open without gas (short request in a short period)

E135: Interruption of gas supply (internal error).

E154: Flow/return sensor temperature test.

E160: Fan or fan wiring fault.

E163: Domestic Hot Water NTC sensor fault (s.c.) OR Domestic Hot Water NTC sensor fault (o.c.).

E270: Circulation fault (dry fire).

E317: Wrong power supply electrical frequency (Hz).

E321: Hot water NTC fault.

E384: False flame.

E385: Under voltage.

E430: Water pressure temporary test.

E430 + Flame "crossed" Water pressure test failed.

Valliant Boiler Fault Codes

F. 00 / F.0: Flow temperature sensor interruption

F10: Flow NTC short circuit

F11: Return NTC short circuit

F22: Low water pressure Switch activated. Low pressure in system, if F75 also shows, the sensor is faulty

F27: Flame loss during operation.

F28/F29: Ignition fault. Possibly blocked/frozen condensate, regulator fault, gas supply fault & could also be a PCB fault

F32: Fan error

F75: Faulty pump or circulation issue/ water pressure sensor fault

F83: Fault with the flue or air supply.

F20: Boiler overheat or earth fault

F54: Gas Valve fault

F76: Thermal fuse blown. Main heat exchanger required

F61/F62: PCB/Gas valve fault

Worcester Boiler Fault Codes

Greenstar-i fault codes

FD: Power interrupted

C7: Fan not running on start-up

C6: Fan speed too high or too low

C1: Fan stopping during operation

C4: Fan has failed to stop

E2: Flow temperature issue

E9: Primary flow temperature exceeding 95°

FA: Ionisation detected after gas valve closed

EA: No ionisation detected after ignition

F7: Ionisation detected before burner start

9U: Control box defective or loose

C4: Control box or heat control module defective

F0: Gas valve/control box error

A8: Heat control module invalid

CC: Outdoor sensor defect

A7: Domestic hot water sensor defect

A1: Pump stuck or running dry

E9: Flue or high limit thermostat activated

D4: Primary flow temps rising too fast

T1:Ignition test

T2: Fan test

T3: Pump test

T4: Three way valve test

T6: Ionisation oscillator test

9A 362: Incorrect HCM fitted

9U 233: Heat Control Module (HCM) error/Problem with code plug

B7 257: Internal error/Potential control board problem

C6 215: Fan problem/Fan running too fast

C7 214: Fan problem/Fan not running

D1 240: Return sensor error/Sensor may be wet or damaged

E2 222: Flow sensor short circuit error

E5 218: Flow temperature too high

E9 219: Safety sensor fault/Temperature too high, sensor short circuit or open circuit

EA 227: No flame detected or flame signal loss during operation

F0 237: Internal error

F7 228: Flame error/False flame or flame detected before burner started

FA 306: False flame fault/Flame detected after burner stop

FD 231: Mains power fault/Electrical power interruption

FA 364: Gas valve EV2 leak test failed /Gas valve leak

FB 365: Gas valve EV1 leak test failed

A1 281: Pump stuck or running with air in the system

C1 264: Airflow stopped during operation

C4 273: Airflow present during last 24 hour

D4 271: Temperature difference between flow and safety sensor exceeds limit

D1 240: Return sensor short circuit

E9 224: Max thermostat activated/ Flue gas thermostat overheat

EA 227: No ionisation detected after ignition

EF 349: Central heating boil detected / Boiler operating at minimum burner load with temperature difference greater than 18°C between Flow & Return

NO CODE 212: Safety or flow temperature rising too fast

Worcester Bosch 8000 series

200 O: Boiler in heating mode

201 O: Fan not running on start-up

202 O: Boiler in anti-cycle mode

203 O: Boiler in stand-by mode

204 O: Current primary water temperature higher than set value

208 O: Chimney sweep demand

224 V: Safety temperature limiter has tripped − top-up water until the reset pressure is reached

227 V: No flame signal after ignition burner control unit could need replacing

228 V: Flame signal without flame present − air/gas ratio control valve may need replacing as might the ionisation cable

305 O: Boiler in hot water anti-cycle mode

306 V: Flame signal after closing the fuel supply − the air/gas ratio control valve might need replacing

360 V: Incompatible code plug − check if a correct code plug is installed and exchange or reconnect code plug

815 W/B: Low loss header temperature sensor faulty − check the sensor port or check the differential sensor for incorrect installation position or breakage

1010 O: No BUS communication cable, EMS-Bus isn't connected or damaged − connect the cable for the EMS-Bus or replace the damaged cable exchange fuse

1017 W: Water pressure too low − the water needs topping up and the vent system or pressure sensor may need replacing

1021 B: Hot water temperature sensor is defective − the plug to the hot water temperature sensor may not be connected

1022 B: Hot water storage temperature sensor is defective − connect the plug to the hot water temperature sensor correctly, mount the hot water temperature sensor correctly or replace the hot water temperature sensor

1037 W: Outside temperature sensor is defective − check the connecting lead

1065 B: Pressure sensor defective or not connected − check pressure sensor connection as it may need replacing

1068 W: Outside temperature sensor defective − check the connecting lead

1073 W: Short circuit of the flow temperature sensor − the temperature sensor may need replacing

1074 W: No signal from the flow temperature sensor available − connect the plug to the flow temperature sensor correctly or temperature sensor could need replacing

1075 W: Short circuit of the temperature sensor at the heating block − temperature sensor may need replacing

1076 W: No signal from the temperature sensor at the heating block available − replace the temperature sensor, the connecting lead or the control unit

2920 V: Error with the flame monitoring

2924 V: No feedback from the modulating gas valve. The gas valve relay is defective − press the reset button and apply burner start, wait to see if fault reoccurs, if it does the gas valve needs replacing

2925 V: Feedback from the modulating gas valve is too low

2927 B: Flame failed during burner operation. Open the main shut off valve, shut down the appliance and check gas line, replace the ionisation electrode, set burner correctly and minimum rated load, check the integrity flue system and if the interconnected room air supply is too small, or the size of the ventilation opening is too small, clean the heating block on the flue gas side or replace the control unit/burner control unit

2946 V: Incorrect code plug detected − the code plug needs replacing

2948 B: No flame signal. With low output the burner starts automatically after cleaning. If the fault occurs repeatedly, the setting of the CO2 valves need checking

2963 B: Signal from flow and heat exchanger temperature sensor outside the permissible range − the connecting lead needs connecting correctly

2964 B: Flow rate in heat exchanger is too low

2965 B: Flow temperature too high

2966 B: Flow temperature rise in heat exchanger too rapid

2967 B: Flow / heat exchanger temperature sensor differential too great

2970 B: Pressure drop in heating system too rapid

2971 B: System pressure too low − the heating system needs venting or water needs topping up until the preset pressure is reached. Replace the cable to the pressure sensor replace the pressure sensor

Ideal Boiler Fault Codes

FD − Insufficient Water Flow

F1 − Low Water Pressure

F2 − Flame Loss

F3 − Fan Fault

F4 − Thermistor Fault

F5 − Return Thermistor Fault

F6 − Outside Sensor Fault

F7 − Low Mains Voltage

F9 − Printed Circuit Board (PCB) Fault

Lack of Water Flow (L1): The L1 fault code indicates inconsistent water flow, resulting in either low or high temperatures. To resolve this issue, try resetting your boiler. If the problem persists, contact a Gas Safe engineer for further assistance.

Ignition Lockout (L2): The L2 fault code indicates ignition lockout caused by blockages or a frozen condensate pipe. Contact a Gas Safe engineer to resolve this issue.

No Flow Thermistor Fault (L3): The L3 fault code indicates a configuration issue with the Printed Circuit Board (PCB). Contact a Gas Safe engineer to resolve this technical issue.

Overheating (L9/H9/HA/LA):

These fault codes indicate overheating due to excessive pressure. Try bleeding your radiators to rectify the issue. If the problem persists, contact a Gas Safe engineer for further assistance.

Fails to Ignite (LF): The LF code indicates that your boiler is not igniting. Press the reset button for 2−5 seconds to resolve this issue. If the problem persists, check other gas appliances and contact a Gas Safe engineer.

Boiler

Boiler Return Pipe Problem (L5): The L5 code indicates that the boiler has been restarted too many times. Turn off the boiler completely and restart it to check if it functions correctly. If not, contact a Gas Safe engineer.

Flame Detection Fault (L6): The L6 code indicates a flame detection fault. Reset the boiler to resolve the issue. If the problem persists, contact the manufacturer for assistance.

Boiler Chip Card Fault (C2): The C2 fault code indicates an error with the boiler chip card. Reset the boiler and if the problem continues, contact a Gas Safe engineer.

Central Heating Signal Problem (C0): The C0 code indicates a problem with central heating signals, likely caused by the circulating pump or thermostat. Contact a Gas Safe engineer to resolve this issue.

No Display: If there is no display on your Ideal boiler, it suggests a fault in the Printed Circuit Board (PCB). Turn off the boiler, restart it, and if the problem persists, contact a qualified professional for assistance.

Noisy boiler: Unusual noises such as kettling, vibrating, or humming are common in boilers. Check for loose components or try repressurizing the boiler to stop the noise. If the issue persists, seek further assistance.

Fault Code 0: When your Ideal boiler displays fault code 0, it means the boiler is in standby mode, waiting for a request for hot water or central heating.

Remember, if you encounter any of these fault codes, it's essential to consult a qualified professional, such as a Gas Safe engineer or the manufacturer's technical support, for accurate diagnosis and resolution. They have the expertise to ensure the safe and efficient operation of your Ideal boiler.

If you encounter any of these fault codes on your Ideal boiler, it is recommended to seek professional assistance from a qualified heating engineer or the manufacturer's technical support. They have the expertise to diagnose and resolve boiler issues effectively and safely, ensuring the optimal functioning of your heating system.

Alpha Boiler Fault Codes

E10: Ignition fault.

E28: Flame loss during operation.

E40: Low water pressure.

E78: Faulty temperature sensor.